So, what I have I accomplished, learnt, or unlearnt here? Will have to think this one through carefully, choose my words carefully and be gently critical where necessary.
As blogged before, after my few months of living in Koh Samui, I had a couple of weeks of "things to do, places to see", so I spent a couple of days in Bangkok, but mostly I was out on day trips to explore some of the country. Next destination - Chiang Mai.
Chiang Mai
In my infinite wisdom, I decided to take a train to Chiang Mai as I had some things to do there. Oh dear, oh dear - big mistake. It was the worst and longest trip I've ever been subjected to. The 12 hour journey became an 18 hour nightmare of smelly toilets and bugs, but eventually arrived at my "temporary stay" hotel somewhere around midnight. Since I'd made this big move from Koh Samui, I naturally had every thing I owned to lug around with me, had no help unloading huge bags from the songthaew, wheeled those huge bags down a dark, uneven alley to the "hotel". There wasn't a lift at the hotel and my room was on the 3rd floor. Say no more. I hated every minute of it. Booking.com failed me miserably on that hotel. The reviews must have been done by friends is all I can say about it. But finally, after some searching for an alternative lodging, on day 3 I managed to find an apartment for daughter and partner, which I was able to move into, bought all the necessary goodies that they would need, and settled myself into Chiang Mai temporarily.
Well, the bad start didn't deter me, and again exploring began, on foot. Taxis, tuk-tuks, songthaews and buses were available, but what better way to find places than by foot. Besides, traffic in Chiang Mai is only a fraction less chaotic than traffic in Bangkok. I discovered so much of Chiang Mai in the first two days, enjoyed the market at Tha-pae gate, visited a few temples, and generally became acquainted with the city. Good thing I did (for later). Soon enough I decided to extend my sight-seeing outside the boundaries of the town.
My first day trip out of Chiang Mai was to the Tiger sanctuary in Mae Rim- about 2 hours by bus from the city. It was easy enough getting there, and I enjoyed a day with the tigers - big, bigger and biggest, and the little ones too, but not the new-borns. This sanctuary is not to be confused with the tiger temple where the tigers are on chains and allegedly drugged. Yes, people are allowed to interact with the tigers at the sanctuary, under strict guard, without chains and drugs. It was a wonderful, if scary experience. Magnificent animals.
Doi Suthep
My next whim took me off to the songthaews parked outside of the zoo. I don't do zoos, so took pics outside, boarded the songthaew for a trip over the mountain to Doi Suthep. Stunning views along the way, and first stop at the temple on the hill. I braved the 400 or so steps to the top, at about noon, probably 40 something degrees. Stunning views from the top, but I wasn't able to go inside the temple due to my usual casual attire - shorts! Never mind, down the stairs, discovered there is actually a lift to the top (too late), hopped onto another songthaew bound for a hill-tribe village, passed by the palace and some other interesting looking places. The hill tribe village was exactly that - very primitive, very cultural, and a fabulous experience. Since I had booked the songthaew for a few hours, I had a lot of time to explore the village, see the traditional etchings, art, clothing and everything the hill tribe villagers had to offer while the driver waited patiently under a tree. 3 hours later, I was ready to leave, and a few changes of transport and a couple of hours later, I was back at "home".
Chiang Rai
No stopping me, so the next day I headed off to the Golden triangle in Chiang Rai Province, so known because it's where 3 countries "meet" - Thailand, Myanmar (Burma) and Laos. It is better known to the locals as Sop Ruak, since this is also where the Mekong meets the Ruak river.
The highlight of this excursion was my visit to the white temple about 20kms outside of town - Wat Rong Khun, which is a modern day unconventional Hindu / Buddhist temple with extremely diverse images and architecture. Magnificent doesn't begin to describe that temple, it's simply amazing. 400 odd photos and hours later, I made my way back to Chiang Rai for a bite to eat, a beer or 2, and then the journey back to Chiang Mai. Pleasantly pooped, I arrived at my lodgings for a cool shower and a bed screaming my name.
Somewhere along my travels, I met a recovering alcoholic lady from the UK. She was in a home in the area, and had already recovered well enough to be allowed "outside" for short periods of time with a curfew. We met most days for coffee and breakfast, shopping and strolling around. Shortly before I got the call which meant I had to leave Chiang Mai, her family came to take her back home, so we said goodbye. I hope she stayed strong and recovered completely. Unfortunately we lost contact.
As I travelled around, seeing hundreds of rice fields, temples, ruins, pop-up restaurants and vendors selling everything from fruit to petrol, I also noticed that there hadn't been one "even" road or sidewalk anywhere I'd been - even on Koh Samui. Each surface is an obstacle course, holes on the sidewalks, potholes on the roads, mounds of random concrete heaps on the sidewalks, excess tar forming mounds on the roads, remnants of paving, fallen power lines, gaping holes where sewerage covers were damaged or non-existent, sidewalk vendors using up the sidewalks - quite a challenge to keep your limbs intact and avoid electrocution. I noticed it back then, I hardly notice it now - I expect nothing less, and I'm never disappointed.
On a more serious note, the first year or so of being here was a runaround. Reasons included my own restlessness, impulsiveness and my love of exploring. There were necessary runarounds for legal purposes, and not least of all "the employment agents". Mostly the agents really, who contributed to the "necessary for legal purposes" runarounds for visas and other mandatory requirements . Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining, as each "inconvenience" created an opportunity to see or do something new, and more importantly to learn how the "foreigner" system works here. It's a web of confusion most of the time, ever-changing and nothing cast in stone, but following the general rules keeps one out of trouble and avoids massive fines.
Well, the bad start didn't deter me, and again exploring began, on foot. Taxis, tuk-tuks, songthaews and buses were available, but what better way to find places than by foot. Besides, traffic in Chiang Mai is only a fraction less chaotic than traffic in Bangkok. I discovered so much of Chiang Mai in the first two days, enjoyed the market at Tha-pae gate, visited a few temples, and generally became acquainted with the city. Good thing I did (for later). Soon enough I decided to extend my sight-seeing outside the boundaries of the town.
My first day trip out of Chiang Mai was to the Tiger sanctuary in Mae Rim- about 2 hours by bus from the city. It was easy enough getting there, and I enjoyed a day with the tigers - big, bigger and biggest, and the little ones too, but not the new-borns. This sanctuary is not to be confused with the tiger temple where the tigers are on chains and allegedly drugged. Yes, people are allowed to interact with the tigers at the sanctuary, under strict guard, without chains and drugs. It was a wonderful, if scary experience. Magnificent animals.Doi Suthep
My next whim took me off to the songthaews parked outside of the zoo. I don't do zoos, so took pics outside, boarded the songthaew for a trip over the mountain to Doi Suthep. Stunning views along the way, and first stop at the temple on the hill. I braved the 400 or so steps to the top, at about noon, probably 40 something degrees. Stunning views from the top, but I wasn't able to go inside the temple due to my usual casual attire - shorts! Never mind, down the stairs, discovered there is actually a lift to the top (too late), hopped onto another songthaew bound for a hill-tribe village, passed by the palace and some other interesting looking places. The hill tribe village was exactly that - very primitive, very cultural, and a fabulous experience. Since I had booked the songthaew for a few hours, I had a lot of time to explore the village, see the traditional etchings, art, clothing and everything the hill tribe villagers had to offer while the driver waited patiently under a tree. 3 hours later, I was ready to leave, and a few changes of transport and a couple of hours later, I was back at "home".
Chiang Rai
No stopping me, so the next day I headed off to the Golden triangle in Chiang Rai Province, so known because it's where 3 countries "meet" - Thailand, Myanmar (Burma) and Laos. It is better known to the locals as Sop Ruak, since this is also where the Mekong meets the Ruak river.
The highlight of this excursion was my visit to the white temple about 20kms outside of town - Wat Rong Khun, which is a modern day unconventional Hindu / Buddhist temple with extremely diverse images and architecture. Magnificent doesn't begin to describe that temple, it's simply amazing. 400 odd photos and hours later, I made my way back to Chiang Rai for a bite to eat, a beer or 2, and then the journey back to Chiang Mai. Pleasantly pooped, I arrived at my lodgings for a cool shower and a bed screaming my name.
Somewhere along my travels, I met a recovering alcoholic lady from the UK. She was in a home in the area, and had already recovered well enough to be allowed "outside" for short periods of time with a curfew. We met most days for coffee and breakfast, shopping and strolling around. Shortly before I got the call which meant I had to leave Chiang Mai, her family came to take her back home, so we said goodbye. I hope she stayed strong and recovered completely. Unfortunately we lost contact.
As I travelled around, seeing hundreds of rice fields, temples, ruins, pop-up restaurants and vendors selling everything from fruit to petrol, I also noticed that there hadn't been one "even" road or sidewalk anywhere I'd been - even on Koh Samui. Each surface is an obstacle course, holes on the sidewalks, potholes on the roads, mounds of random concrete heaps on the sidewalks, excess tar forming mounds on the roads, remnants of paving, fallen power lines, gaping holes where sewerage covers were damaged or non-existent, sidewalk vendors using up the sidewalks - quite a challenge to keep your limbs intact and avoid electrocution. I noticed it back then, I hardly notice it now - I expect nothing less, and I'm never disappointed.
On a more serious note, the first year or so of being here was a runaround. Reasons included my own restlessness, impulsiveness and my love of exploring. There were necessary runarounds for legal purposes, and not least of all "the employment agents". Mostly the agents really, who contributed to the "necessary for legal purposes" runarounds for visas and other mandatory requirements . Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining, as each "inconvenience" created an opportunity to see or do something new, and more importantly to learn how the "foreigner" system works here. It's a web of confusion most of the time, ever-changing and nothing cast in stone, but following the general rules keeps one out of trouble and avoids massive fines.
Sukothai
My first call to duty was "hurry up" to Sukothai from Chiang Mai for an interview at a school - about an 8 hour bus trip as it turned out. I was interviewed and employed immediately, and started teaching at a Montessori Kindergarten in Sukothai. I was one of 3 foreign teachers, albeit the other 2 were teaching the regular program Pratom (Primary) kids at the school. One was from Australia, and one from the UK, and both of them were equally awful people. As far as teaching was concerned, I have to admit that I hated every minute of the repetitiveness of teaching Kindergartern. Not my cup of cocoa, although I did become quite attached to a couple of the little people. The days were long and rather boring, espcially when the kids had their 2 hour naps after lunch. In retrospect, all those nursery rhymes became useful when I became a granny a few years later.
The town of Sukothai is very nice though, I enjoyed my little house and the restaurants that I used to frequent. It was in Sukothai that I met a monk and spent a few hours drinking tea with him on the balcony of the temple. Something usually unheard of, especially since I wasn't even dressed to be in a temple. Obviously the temple was not popular for tourists as it was a also a temple school and it was being renovated, so I was the only one there - by invitation from this "unconventional" monk. I got to see the dining area, sleeping area, bathing area, praying area etc etc. Quite an interesting experience until the monk offered to show me his private sleeping quarters. I politely declined, and never rode past that temple again.
Weekends would see me doing what I love - exploring far and wide. I lived in the new town, but spent a lot time exploring the old town where the UNESCO heritage site, Sukothai Historical Park, is situated. Stunning park, peaceful and a lot to see if looking at ruins is your thing. It was mine at the time. You can rent bicycles or walk through the park, but I chose the lazy option and rode it on my motorcycle - many stops, many photos, good memories. Of course shopping also happened in the old town which is where the Big C was situated, only about 11kms from where I lived in the old town.
SiSatchanalai Park was some 60kms away, and I did a bus trip there as recommended by my landlord. Yes, the ruins sort of look the same, but the scenery is different and there was a rather wobbly wooden bridge to cross over the Yom river, so I enjoyed that excursion. I rented a bicycle there, and rode through the park on that rickety thing. It was hot, very hot! The bus ride back was a laugh - an old village bus that barely got to 40kms/h, gearbox problem, and so we travelled for about half the distance in 3rd gear, the only gear that worked. Finally, the driver hailed another bus and bullied us all out of his bus into the other. Don't blame the guy for being a little grumpy really, and I did feel a lot safer in the bus with gears. Safely home, and then the customary beer and something spicy at my favourite eatery. The 2 ladies there were great, and whenever they saw my motorcycle approaching, the beer was on the table and waiting for me ... with ice. They generously gave me fruit and Thai desserts, to see my reaction sometimes I think, and I couldn't disappoint. I at least tasted everything.
So drinking beer (unusual for me), with ice (unusual for anyone), became "normal". The heat can be so intense in Thailand, so it makes absolute sense that you should have ice. Yes? Those were still the days when I drank beer and ate Thai food - long time ago.
I don't think things through when exploring and don't really plan anything, opting to simply get on the motorcycle and find something along the way. In so doing, I found, purely by accident and after about 85kms, the beautiful Ramkhamhaeng National Park set among the Khao Lung mountains - the highest peak being 1200m above sea level. The park offers walking trails to the waterfalls, river and caves, and is home to many species of birds (owls, hawks), small antelope, monkeys, bears, wild pigs, squirrels and gibbons. A few cabins are available for weekend or holiday rentals - popular with the hikers who take the longer routes up the mountain (about 8 hours). Shorter routes are available for the "not so enthusiastic" visitors. I later found out that it is part of the Sukothai Historical Park, on the north-east corner of the Park.
Later on, in July, daughter and partner arrived in Thailand, got to Chiang Mai and started their courses at the Chiang Mai University. My weekends became a routine of taking an afternoon bus to Chiang Mai on a Friday, to arrive late in the evening, and to spend Saturday and part of Sunday showing them around Chiang Mai before the bus ride back to Sukothai. They never ventured further than the main road around the corner from the apartment where they usually had dinner, and up that same road to the University. I became the weekend tour guide, trying to instil some kind of adventurous spirit into them - to no avail for all the time they spent there.
I don't think things through when exploring and don't really plan anything, opting to simply get on the motorcycle and find something along the way. In so doing, I found, purely by accident and after about 85kms, the beautiful Ramkhamhaeng National Park set among the Khao Lung mountains - the highest peak being 1200m above sea level. The park offers walking trails to the waterfalls, river and caves, and is home to many species of birds (owls, hawks), small antelope, monkeys, bears, wild pigs, squirrels and gibbons. A few cabins are available for weekend or holiday rentals - popular with the hikers who take the longer routes up the mountain (about 8 hours). Shorter routes are available for the "not so enthusiastic" visitors. I later found out that it is part of the Sukothai Historical Park, on the north-east corner of the Park.
Later on, in July, daughter and partner arrived in Thailand, got to Chiang Mai and started their courses at the Chiang Mai University. My weekends became a routine of taking an afternoon bus to Chiang Mai on a Friday, to arrive late in the evening, and to spend Saturday and part of Sunday showing them around Chiang Mai before the bus ride back to Sukothai. They never ventured further than the main road around the corner from the apartment where they usually had dinner, and up that same road to the University. I became the weekend tour guide, trying to instil some kind of adventurous spirit into them - to no avail for all the time they spent there.
Well, after a pleasant few months in Sukothai, the agency I worked for decided that I should ship myself off to Phichit to fill a position at a Mattayom (High) School. Phichit is about 60kms from Sukothai, and the change of schools would require another trip to Laos to change my visa. (It's become easier now to change visas without leaving the country).
Phichit
How to describe Phichit? Phichit is a small province, and the town of Phichit is small. I would be teaching and staying in the town, and not in one of the smaller villages in the province. Thankfully!!!
So, I arrived from Sukothai with all my junk in tow, and was collected at the bus station by the Director of the English Programme. I met with the the School Director shortly afterwards, and would start work the next day - it was already after 4pm. I was taken to dinner at what looked like an enormous canteen, and deposited back at the "school house" where I would spend the night.
Horror of horrors, it was nothing less than completely filthy and eerie and awful. It was a completely dilapidated Thai style house, had been empty for months, smelt musty, ghekos and all sorts of creepy crawlies lived in complete harmony in this smelly dump. I was horrified, but there was nothing I could do at 7pm with no transport and only 1 hotel which was fully booked. I didn't sleep much.
The next day I started teaching, rented a motorcycle and started apartment hunting in the evening. After looking at 2 or 3 places which I didn't want, I finally found a nice apartment about 4kms from the school. Unfortunately I had to spend another night in that awful house, and moved everything the following afternoon. Joy!!
Although Phichit is small and has only one major shopping centre (Tesco Lotus), it was actually quite pleasant. There's never a shortage of restaurants in any town, and Phichit was no different. There were 2 fresh produce markets, little shops and all the necessities one needed. Fortunately I had the motorcycle and wasn't confined to barracks, so I explored the town and surrounds.
The school is the biggest school in the province with about 5000 students. I was teaching regular M1 to M6 students, and one 1st year STEAM class. The students in the regular classes ranged from 0 -3 on a scale of 1 - 10. The STEAM class about 1-5. Too many students per class, too many classes per grade - it was hard work. One finally has to admit defeat and hope to get through to at least 10% of the students. Higher expectations breed disappointment.
About 2 weeks into teaching, a young SA lady who had recently graduated from UCT arrived and joined me as the 2nd foreign teacher in the school. Besides the 2 Filipinos who had been there for 4 years by then, we were the only real foreign teachers (non-Asian). All teachers sat in a huge office, and that's where I learnt how mean and nasty some Thai people can be. I guess some of the Thai teachers just don't like foreign teachers, and we often caught them gossiping about us, as well as their fellow Thai teachers. Jealousy was a big thing amongst those Thai ladies, and we witnessed heated arguments amongst the Thai teachers on a regular basis. Luckily, my SA colleague and I both speak Afrikaans, so we could natter along without fear of being understood.
Needless to say, subsequent to my future departure from that school, the Director of English was demoted, and a couple of the trouble makers retired. Foreign teachers came and went after Lerusha and I left, none have stayed - a very common occurrence in Thailand, as I would learn later.
More about Phichit and beyond Phichit later. Stay tuned! :-)
Phichit
How to describe Phichit? Phichit is a small province, and the town of Phichit is small. I would be teaching and staying in the town, and not in one of the smaller villages in the province. Thankfully!!!
So, I arrived from Sukothai with all my junk in tow, and was collected at the bus station by the Director of the English Programme. I met with the the School Director shortly afterwards, and would start work the next day - it was already after 4pm. I was taken to dinner at what looked like an enormous canteen, and deposited back at the "school house" where I would spend the night.
Horror of horrors, it was nothing less than completely filthy and eerie and awful. It was a completely dilapidated Thai style house, had been empty for months, smelt musty, ghekos and all sorts of creepy crawlies lived in complete harmony in this smelly dump. I was horrified, but there was nothing I could do at 7pm with no transport and only 1 hotel which was fully booked. I didn't sleep much.
Phichit is a famous for traditional long-boat racing on the Nan river, and also home to the famous crocodile park
The next day I started teaching, rented a motorcycle and started apartment hunting in the evening. After looking at 2 or 3 places which I didn't want, I finally found a nice apartment about 4kms from the school. Unfortunately I had to spend another night in that awful house, and moved everything the following afternoon. Joy!!
Although Phichit is small and has only one major shopping centre (Tesco Lotus), it was actually quite pleasant. There's never a shortage of restaurants in any town, and Phichit was no different. There were 2 fresh produce markets, little shops and all the necessities one needed. Fortunately I had the motorcycle and wasn't confined to barracks, so I explored the town and surrounds.
The school is the biggest school in the province with about 5000 students. I was teaching regular M1 to M6 students, and one 1st year STEAM class. The students in the regular classes ranged from 0 -3 on a scale of 1 - 10. The STEAM class about 1-5. Too many students per class, too many classes per grade - it was hard work. One finally has to admit defeat and hope to get through to at least 10% of the students. Higher expectations breed disappointment.
About 2 weeks into teaching, a young SA lady who had recently graduated from UCT arrived and joined me as the 2nd foreign teacher in the school. Besides the 2 Filipinos who had been there for 4 years by then, we were the only real foreign teachers (non-Asian). All teachers sat in a huge office, and that's where I learnt how mean and nasty some Thai people can be. I guess some of the Thai teachers just don't like foreign teachers, and we often caught them gossiping about us, as well as their fellow Thai teachers. Jealousy was a big thing amongst those Thai ladies, and we witnessed heated arguments amongst the Thai teachers on a regular basis. Luckily, my SA colleague and I both speak Afrikaans, so we could natter along without fear of being understood.
Needless to say, subsequent to my future departure from that school, the Director of English was demoted, and a couple of the trouble makers retired. Foreign teachers came and went after Lerusha and I left, none have stayed - a very common occurrence in Thailand, as I would learn later.
More about Phichit and beyond Phichit later. Stay tuned! :-)
Awesome! Love reading your stories!
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