Home for a while
Well, after all the more formal posts, and a bit of the travel stuff, here's something a little different.
I'm remembering so many things from long ago, and it makes me smile that once upon a time I seemed rather smitten with Thailand. Hopping on and off my motorcycle to destinations unknown, exploring everywhere and getting a feel of wherever it was that I happened to find myself.
I suppose it was still the traveller frame of mind, everything was new and see-worthy.
Since previous posts were about my first year, I should be excused for the child-like excitement I had during that time. How many dozens of temples I visited? I don't recall. Do I remember the names of all the little towns that I spent hours exploring? No. Do I still like Thai food? No. Do I still drink beer .. with ice? No. Time to become a local .. well, yes!
When I arrived in NS I started teaching at an English Program School (High School) about 10kms outside of town. It's a small private school in a very big building employing 10 foreign teachers to teach about 35 - 40 students. There are half a dozen or so Thai teachers who teach Art, Thai, Thai boxing and dancing etc. I taught English and Computer studies.
I'm not going to dwell on the teaching anymore, but will mention that I enjoyed it at the school, and then moved to the University, where I am still an English lecturer, teaching diverse courses to English Major, Education Major and International Program students. Under the banner of the University, I do specific project teaching (weekends) corporate teaching (evenings and/or weekends), and anything else that the University requires from time to time.
Once I'd settled in NS some 3 plus years ago, I adopted a cat from the Soi Dog / Cat Foundation in Phuket, and went to fetch my then 8 month old baby in Bangkok. He had been rescued at a factory somewhere in Phuket, and had already been named Nicom, which apparently has something to do with a factory. I didn't change his name.
No public transport would have me with my cat (in his travel cage), so I took a metre taxi from BKK to NS (235 kms) to bring my frightened fur-kid home. He was naturally very nervous after his ordeal - the flight from Phuket, me schlepping around in the heat of the day to get us home, and finally the long drive to freedom. Once home, he observed me from the far corner of his cage for a while before I managed to coax him out, and although still nervous, he finally started exploring his new home. Now, he is the master of the home, and I am his servant.
No public transport would have me with my cat (in his travel cage), so I took a metre taxi from BKK to NS (235 kms) to bring my frightened fur-kid home. He was naturally very nervous after his ordeal - the flight from Phuket, me schlepping around in the heat of the day to get us home, and finally the long drive to freedom. Once home, he observed me from the far corner of his cage for a while before I managed to coax him out, and although still nervous, he finally started exploring his new home. Now, he is the master of the home, and I am his servant.
I've had requests for information from many people about living in Thailand, and my answer is always the same ..... it's not everyone's cup of cocoa. Being a tourist for a couple of weeks is really not day to day living in Thailand. Adapting to a Thai lifestyle is a challenge, and one that many people cannot endure for too long. Life is different here, and anyone expecting pristine roads and 1st world culture is in for a big surprise. To live here, you need not only to adapt, but also to accept things that you would never dream of even tolerating in a 1st world country.
So Thailand is not for the squeamish, but I've always been an adventurous toughie and living a la local works for me.
To say that I've learnt a lot of the culture is true, but it's not to say that I accept the culture as my own. I will always be a South African, but one living in a better place (as things stand in SA now). I miss SA, Cape Town in particular, and my family still living there. I miss Christmas, Easter, December holidays, biltong and braaivleis. I miss my friends in SA, those that are still friends, and those that have long forgotten me. Coming to SA every year to visit my loved ones is bittersweet. I look forward to coming and have a fabulous holiday, then I look forward to coming back home. I don't anticipate moving back to SA - sadly.
I have travelled around Asia - it's easy from here - and I've been to places I would otherwise never have seen. My holidays abroad were to the UK and Europe mostly, and in my wildest dreams I never imagined ending up in Asia. All it took was one holiday to Asia 6 years ago, and everything changed. Not to say that any places in Europe have been scratched off my bucket list, but those can wait. For now, I'm enjoying the opportunities of traipsing around Asia.
Among many firsts here, it's also here that I became grandmother (Yaai) to beautiful, now just over 2 year old Kyla May. The news of her expected arrival some 8 months later was a surprise which I was told about when I returned from a trip to Laos when I was considering accepting a deputy director position at a school in Vientiane. No surprise therefore that I stayed right here and saw her grow from the little peanut on the scans to the delightful, headstrong little missy she is now. She speaks both Thai and English and has recently started "baby school" at a Catholic playschool nearby. She loves it. Kyla and Nicom have a love - hate relationship. They love each other, but sometimes Nicom hates all the enthusiastic attention she showers on him. He's a bit grumpy like that, love is strictly on his terms. I am very fortunate to see Kyla almost everyday and how she has blossomed from that little quiet bundle to the sassy young girl she is now. Boss number 2, hot on the heels of Nicom.
There's a large expat community in Thailand of which I'm not a member. Mostly foreign men that have Thai wives and families. The major "meeting" communities are in Bangkok and Phuket, but there are also about 300 "farangs" living here in NS. Like everywhere else here, many are teachers at various towns in the provinces, and others are retirees with good pensions and lovely young wives who look young enough to be their granddaughters. I can't understand the logic, but each to their own. Eeek!! Having said that, these are also the people who are the most critical about Thailand, Thai people, and everything else Thai - roads, traffic, transport, airlines, law enforcement etc. Yet they stay. There are many who are unable to return to their home countries for various reasons, so Thailand is a haven for them. Then there are others who are taken to the dry cleaners by their young Thai wives and their wives' much younger lovers, and find themselves with nothing but the clothes on their backs. It's all about the money honey. Sad situation actually, they usually end up in the suicide statistics recorded on expat forums. To clarify, a foreigner never qualifies to become a citizen of this country. Ownership of assets can only be obtained by co-ownership with a Thai person, and it's usually a spouse.
In it's quest to become globally competitive and to be a fore-runner in the ASEAN community, Thailand employs a lot of NES teachers to teach at government schools and universities. It's most unfortunate that there are many "back-packer teachers", who are not teachers at all. They come for the cheap lifestyle, parties and the beach -a "working" holiday - and then disappear without notice, or end up in jail for numerous (obvious ) reasons. Thanks to these folk, the MOE has become a lot stricter on approving "just anybody", and immigration laws have changed to suit. It's a little bit of a problem when these folk make trouble as all "farangs" are considered to be the same in the eyes of the Thais. It's no surprise that so many popular tourist destinations have become dens of iniquity, with sex and drugs being the greatest attraction. As an aside, there is absolutely no way on earth that Thailand is anywhere close to being English literate, much less proficient, and it is unlikely that they will ever reach such status.
I digress ...
So, what is it that has kept me here for 4 years? Primarily the reason is that it is safe to live here. Yes, there is crime here of course, but it's different. Thais fighting Thais, Thais fighting obnoxious, drunken tourists and troublemakers. I've travelled far and wide here, on my own, with family, day or night, and I have never once felt the need to look over my shoulder or hang on to anything for dear life. You can leave your helmet and your shopping on your motorcycle and go for coffee or do a little more shopping without fear of it being stolen. I've left my laptop, travel bag, back -pack etc on my motorcycle and popped into the 7-11 for a sandwich, never concerned that it won't be there when I return. I cannot assume that it will never happen, but so far, so good. The deep south is an exception, and one war or another is always been fought there. Yala and Hat Yai in particular are often in the news for car-bomb attacks, attacks on schools and shopping centres. I was in that area some time in 2012, only for a week or so, and I was very happy to leave. A walk on Songkhla beach was a lot less relaxing than any walk should be.
I am also guilty of forming opinions and having negative thoughts about Thailand sometimes, but I don't broadcast or publish my views on open forums or social networks. Nowhere is Utopia, and it would be very short-sighted of me to imagine or pretend that Thailand is without it's own variety of problems and faults. In the scheme of things, one has a safe and better life here and day to day living is uncomplicated if you don't become involved in the policies of the people and the country. If I didn't read the news on the forums, I'd probably be totally oblivious to any dramas unfolding around the country.
Weather here is summer all year, although there is a rainy season and a so-called "winter". It's hellishly hot here in summer and only mildly cool in the early mornings during winter. Temperatures in summer hover around 40+ degrees with a "feels like" of 50+. Winter is around 28-35 during the day and sometimes around 18 in the morning or evening. This is the weather pattern where I live, and will vary slightly in other regions of the country. The North-East of Thailand is subject to colder spells and more rains, compliments of Laos,Vietnam and China. Personally, I don't like getting cold, so the weather has been a plus for me.
One often hears of floods here, and indeed there are. Firstly, it's a tropical country, hence the wild tropical storms, and that shouldn't surprise. Flash floods occur, often due to the poor (or lack of) drainage on the roads throughout most or all of the country. Sand backs are used as "protection" from the rising waters of the rivers, and we all know how that turns out. Also, it's very common for Thai people to have houses right on the banks of the rivers and are therefore often left homeless after a heavy downpour. Not for long usually, as families rally together and help each other, and boats are "moored" at the front doors. In 2010 or 2011 the town where I live was flooded to the extent that many people evacuated, and went to higher ground. The apartment block where I live was flooded to the 2nd floor, as was the school I used to work at. Crocodiles from Bueng Bhorapet reserve were swimming through the town, cars were washed away, and many people lost their homes. Now, some 5 years or so later, there are still abandoned cars to be seen along the roads.
Given all the flooding and as one would expect, roads and sidewalks are uneven at best, and an obstacle course at worst. You get to know the roads and avoid the holes, keep your eyes on the road or sidewalk if walking is your thing, and thereby avoid broken limbs. If you ride a motorcycle (as we do), it's worth your while to be extra cautious in traffic, the roads belong to the cars (SUV's), and the drivers are reckless, careless and always have the right of way. Young motorcyclists aren't too much better and ride their poegies very aggressively. Big bikes are becoming more and more popular, however impractical they may be in some places, and certainly shouldn't be ridden by the young and reckless.
Here you learn how to cope and go with the flow of weather, traffic and whatever protest is happening somewhere far enough away for it not to be of any consequence in your daily life. If you like Thai food and don't mind the street food idea, you can eat a full meal for about 20 or 30 Baht. Not all street food is going to be bad, but knowing where to buy is a good way to stay out of hospital. I don't eat street food, never have and never will. Street foods (for those who don't know), are simply food stalls/ vendors on the sides of the roads. Sometimes the food is cooked in the morning (or yesterday), out in the heat of the day .... I don't think any further explanation is necessary. Because of the abundance of these food outlets and make-shift roadside restaurants with much less than sanitary or hygienic facilities, rats and cockroaches are inevitable.
Pollution is a very big problem here with very few recycling facilities, and even less people who care about the filth and damage to the environment. Smelly sewers - you learn to avoid them. Stray dogs "soi dogs"are everywhere, scavenging for scraps which are plentiful due to the enormous amount of waste. My heart aches when I see diseased and "broken" dogs in the streets. On the one hand there are many people who have pets and take wonderful care of them, and on the other hand not enough people who care to give homes to the many strays. Sterilisation of animals is apparently a costly procedure if anyone cared enough, so the population of strays increases all the time. Not a subject I'd like to dwell on, it's just too sad.
The Soi Dog Foundation does wonderful work in getting the strays off the streets and into shelters for rehabilitation and eventual homing, but it's hard for them to keep up. The foundation has been successful in rescuing thousands of animals from illegal smuggling syndicates, and they have obtained a huge amount of support from around the world. Definitely a foundation worth supporting, not only by adopting, but also by assisting financially, volunteering professional help (vets), visiting the shelters to help with walking the dogs and giving a little bit of love. My Nicom comes from this foundation (as mentioned previously).
A heartwarming snippet - we have a cleaner/gardener woman at the University. She's really quite rough around the edges and loves her daily shots of Hong Tong Blend, but what a wonderful heart she has. She is funny, kind and an absolute treat to talk to, Despite the language barrier, we have long conversations and many laughs. She feeds every animal imaginable. We have dogs at the University which she feeds every day, she feeds the cats that come over from the temple school next door, she feeds the birds, the fish ... she feeds and provides water for anything that walks, crawls or flies, and she really cares! I think even the doves know her by name. The world does need more people like her.
I'm fortunate to have a little family here, and we have some fun times. Afrikaans often becomes our "when we are out" language of choice. We used to do quite a lot of road-trips together, including weekends in Bangkok for shopping, but we do less of that now with heavy work loads and too little free time at the same time. I still get around as everyone knows, but as a family we generally do things around here, or not too far from here. With Kyla, we rely on public transport to take us to places as none of us will put her onto a motorcycle. We make use of buses for the out of town excursions. We did toy with the idea of buying a car together, but again the ownership thing is a problem, and what if we decide to leave? So, for now, we do what we do.
Generally we make food at home, SA style. There is Makro, Tesco Lotus and Big C who, between them, stock a variety of imported products - from SA, New Zealand, Australia and Germany, Italy, Netherlands etc. Breakfast collection on the way to work is usually a toasted sandwich from 7-11. The 7-11 here is more like a Spar, and nothing like the grotty 7-11 stores in SA. Iced coffee is available everywhere, but we have our favourite coffee lady's kiosk on the way to work. If she's not there, we have 2 backup plans right next to the University. Mocca Yen is my addiction. When we are at one of the Malls, Amazon and Bitter Sweet are simply the best.
There are fresh produce markets all over, and they are okay for vegetables and fruit if you feel inclined to go. Sometimes it's just easier to get everything in one place - Tesco or Big C. We have a stunning park across the road for a stroll, to feed the fish with Kyla, or even just to sit and watch the sun set over the lake. There are a couple of private hospitals here, one in which Kyla was born, as well as a number of government hospitals and clinics. Private practices are very few and far between, so a trip to the doctor means a trip to the hospital. Medical care at most of the government facilities are better by far than any state hospital in SA. We have medical insurance at a hospital of our choice from the list provided. I've been in hospital twice in NS, no complaints except the Thai food, but my daughter brought me something from 7-11 on those occasions, so I didn't exactly starve. On the contrary, I got cake and coffee too.
Apartment rentals are very cheap here - certainly in comparison to anything in SA. An average furnished apartment (basic furniture) ranges from about R1200 per month excluding utilities and internet. A hotspot internet connection costs around R70 per month, and if you include a small fridge and television you would add another R150 to your bill. So, for an estimated R1500 per month including utilities, you have everything you need.
I bought new furniture for my apartment because I wanted my own things, and have my own internet connection and satellite dish with True Corporation (a Thai version of DSTV and also an ISP) so my apartment rental including utilities ranges from R1400 to R1600 per month, depending on aircon usage. If I did eat Thai food, I could live very cheaply, adding around R300 to monthly living costs.
Cooking at home isn't really that much more expensive, but we do eat out from time to time, so cost of living here pretty much depends on you. Still, it's a helluva lot lower than SA, and in my case, that means more opportunity to travel.
Hopefully this post is a little newsworthy for anyone hoping to make Thailand home for a longish period of time. If anyone is interested in any more detail, you are welcome to mail me, or find me on Facebook ... for now.
I have another dream which I'm working on fulfilling before I'm well past my use-by date, but more about that when I know more about that.
So from here, for now, Sawadee. I promise that future posts will be shorter :-)
I digress ...
So, what is it that has kept me here for 4 years? Primarily the reason is that it is safe to live here. Yes, there is crime here of course, but it's different. Thais fighting Thais, Thais fighting obnoxious, drunken tourists and troublemakers. I've travelled far and wide here, on my own, with family, day or night, and I have never once felt the need to look over my shoulder or hang on to anything for dear life. You can leave your helmet and your shopping on your motorcycle and go for coffee or do a little more shopping without fear of it being stolen. I've left my laptop, travel bag, back -pack etc on my motorcycle and popped into the 7-11 for a sandwich, never concerned that it won't be there when I return. I cannot assume that it will never happen, but so far, so good. The deep south is an exception, and one war or another is always been fought there. Yala and Hat Yai in particular are often in the news for car-bomb attacks, attacks on schools and shopping centres. I was in that area some time in 2012, only for a week or so, and I was very happy to leave. A walk on Songkhla beach was a lot less relaxing than any walk should be.
I am also guilty of forming opinions and having negative thoughts about Thailand sometimes, but I don't broadcast or publish my views on open forums or social networks. Nowhere is Utopia, and it would be very short-sighted of me to imagine or pretend that Thailand is without it's own variety of problems and faults. In the scheme of things, one has a safe and better life here and day to day living is uncomplicated if you don't become involved in the policies of the people and the country. If I didn't read the news on the forums, I'd probably be totally oblivious to any dramas unfolding around the country.
Weather here is summer all year, although there is a rainy season and a so-called "winter". It's hellishly hot here in summer and only mildly cool in the early mornings during winter. Temperatures in summer hover around 40+ degrees with a "feels like" of 50+. Winter is around 28-35 during the day and sometimes around 18 in the morning or evening. This is the weather pattern where I live, and will vary slightly in other regions of the country. The North-East of Thailand is subject to colder spells and more rains, compliments of Laos,Vietnam and China. Personally, I don't like getting cold, so the weather has been a plus for me.
One often hears of floods here, and indeed there are. Firstly, it's a tropical country, hence the wild tropical storms, and that shouldn't surprise. Flash floods occur, often due to the poor (or lack of) drainage on the roads throughout most or all of the country. Sand backs are used as "protection" from the rising waters of the rivers, and we all know how that turns out. Also, it's very common for Thai people to have houses right on the banks of the rivers and are therefore often left homeless after a heavy downpour. Not for long usually, as families rally together and help each other, and boats are "moored" at the front doors. In 2010 or 2011 the town where I live was flooded to the extent that many people evacuated, and went to higher ground. The apartment block where I live was flooded to the 2nd floor, as was the school I used to work at. Crocodiles from Bueng Bhorapet reserve were swimming through the town, cars were washed away, and many people lost their homes. Now, some 5 years or so later, there are still abandoned cars to be seen along the roads.
Given all the flooding and as one would expect, roads and sidewalks are uneven at best, and an obstacle course at worst. You get to know the roads and avoid the holes, keep your eyes on the road or sidewalk if walking is your thing, and thereby avoid broken limbs. If you ride a motorcycle (as we do), it's worth your while to be extra cautious in traffic, the roads belong to the cars (SUV's), and the drivers are reckless, careless and always have the right of way. Young motorcyclists aren't too much better and ride their poegies very aggressively. Big bikes are becoming more and more popular, however impractical they may be in some places, and certainly shouldn't be ridden by the young and reckless.
Here you learn how to cope and go with the flow of weather, traffic and whatever protest is happening somewhere far enough away for it not to be of any consequence in your daily life. If you like Thai food and don't mind the street food idea, you can eat a full meal for about 20 or 30 Baht. Not all street food is going to be bad, but knowing where to buy is a good way to stay out of hospital. I don't eat street food, never have and never will. Street foods (for those who don't know), are simply food stalls/ vendors on the sides of the roads. Sometimes the food is cooked in the morning (or yesterday), out in the heat of the day .... I don't think any further explanation is necessary. Because of the abundance of these food outlets and make-shift roadside restaurants with much less than sanitary or hygienic facilities, rats and cockroaches are inevitable.
Pollution is a very big problem here with very few recycling facilities, and even less people who care about the filth and damage to the environment. Smelly sewers - you learn to avoid them. Stray dogs "soi dogs"are everywhere, scavenging for scraps which are plentiful due to the enormous amount of waste. My heart aches when I see diseased and "broken" dogs in the streets. On the one hand there are many people who have pets and take wonderful care of them, and on the other hand not enough people who care to give homes to the many strays. Sterilisation of animals is apparently a costly procedure if anyone cared enough, so the population of strays increases all the time. Not a subject I'd like to dwell on, it's just too sad.
The Soi Dog Foundation does wonderful work in getting the strays off the streets and into shelters for rehabilitation and eventual homing, but it's hard for them to keep up. The foundation has been successful in rescuing thousands of animals from illegal smuggling syndicates, and they have obtained a huge amount of support from around the world. Definitely a foundation worth supporting, not only by adopting, but also by assisting financially, volunteering professional help (vets), visiting the shelters to help with walking the dogs and giving a little bit of love. My Nicom comes from this foundation (as mentioned previously).
A heartwarming snippet - we have a cleaner/gardener woman at the University. She's really quite rough around the edges and loves her daily shots of Hong Tong Blend, but what a wonderful heart she has. She is funny, kind and an absolute treat to talk to, Despite the language barrier, we have long conversations and many laughs. She feeds every animal imaginable. We have dogs at the University which she feeds every day, she feeds the cats that come over from the temple school next door, she feeds the birds, the fish ... she feeds and provides water for anything that walks, crawls or flies, and she really cares! I think even the doves know her by name. The world does need more people like her.
I'm fortunate to have a little family here, and we have some fun times. Afrikaans often becomes our "when we are out" language of choice. We used to do quite a lot of road-trips together, including weekends in Bangkok for shopping, but we do less of that now with heavy work loads and too little free time at the same time. I still get around as everyone knows, but as a family we generally do things around here, or not too far from here. With Kyla, we rely on public transport to take us to places as none of us will put her onto a motorcycle. We make use of buses for the out of town excursions. We did toy with the idea of buying a car together, but again the ownership thing is a problem, and what if we decide to leave? So, for now, we do what we do.
Generally we make food at home, SA style. There is Makro, Tesco Lotus and Big C who, between them, stock a variety of imported products - from SA, New Zealand, Australia and Germany, Italy, Netherlands etc. Breakfast collection on the way to work is usually a toasted sandwich from 7-11. The 7-11 here is more like a Spar, and nothing like the grotty 7-11 stores in SA. Iced coffee is available everywhere, but we have our favourite coffee lady's kiosk on the way to work. If she's not there, we have 2 backup plans right next to the University. Mocca Yen is my addiction. When we are at one of the Malls, Amazon and Bitter Sweet are simply the best.
There are fresh produce markets all over, and they are okay for vegetables and fruit if you feel inclined to go. Sometimes it's just easier to get everything in one place - Tesco or Big C. We have a stunning park across the road for a stroll, to feed the fish with Kyla, or even just to sit and watch the sun set over the lake. There are a couple of private hospitals here, one in which Kyla was born, as well as a number of government hospitals and clinics. Private practices are very few and far between, so a trip to the doctor means a trip to the hospital. Medical care at most of the government facilities are better by far than any state hospital in SA. We have medical insurance at a hospital of our choice from the list provided. I've been in hospital twice in NS, no complaints except the Thai food, but my daughter brought me something from 7-11 on those occasions, so I didn't exactly starve. On the contrary, I got cake and coffee too.
Apartment rentals are very cheap here - certainly in comparison to anything in SA. An average furnished apartment (basic furniture) ranges from about R1200 per month excluding utilities and internet. A hotspot internet connection costs around R70 per month, and if you include a small fridge and television you would add another R150 to your bill. So, for an estimated R1500 per month including utilities, you have everything you need.
I bought new furniture for my apartment because I wanted my own things, and have my own internet connection and satellite dish with True Corporation (a Thai version of DSTV and also an ISP) so my apartment rental including utilities ranges from R1400 to R1600 per month, depending on aircon usage. If I did eat Thai food, I could live very cheaply, adding around R300 to monthly living costs.
Cooking at home isn't really that much more expensive, but we do eat out from time to time, so cost of living here pretty much depends on you. Still, it's a helluva lot lower than SA, and in my case, that means more opportunity to travel.
Hopefully this post is a little newsworthy for anyone hoping to make Thailand home for a longish period of time. If anyone is interested in any more detail, you are welcome to mail me, or find me on Facebook ... for now.
I have another dream which I'm working on fulfilling before I'm well past my use-by date, but more about that when I know more about that.
So from here, for now, Sawadee. I promise that future posts will be shorter :-)
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